Post by stanh on Dec 3, 2008 21:27:29 GMT -5
Here are some instructions for wet sanding to remove oxidation from fiberglass:
Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wet sanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.
All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.
You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.
Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 3,000 rpm model.
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92623s
3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.
Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be matched to the severity of the oxidation...if it is real bad you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.
3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
3M Final Glaze # 06066
Any hard Carnauba Marine Wax
1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.
Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.
2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.
Start with the 1200 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1500 grit, and rinse, then again with the 2000 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru ..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.
When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.
3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.
4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.
make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the rugs.
By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnauba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as it comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..
Pro-Tec makes an excellent polymer sealer for the gelcoat, bonds to the glass and seals the pores to help prevent oxidation.
www.protecproducts.com/products.html
StanH
Basscat7
Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wet sanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.
All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.
You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.
Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 3,000 rpm model.
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92623s
3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.
Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be matched to the severity of the oxidation...if it is real bad you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.
3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
3M Final Glaze # 06066
Any hard Carnauba Marine Wax
1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.
Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.
2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.
Start with the 1200 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1500 grit, and rinse, then again with the 2000 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru ..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.
When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.
3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.
4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.
make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the rugs.
By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnauba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as it comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..
Pro-Tec makes an excellent polymer sealer for the gelcoat, bonds to the glass and seals the pores to help prevent oxidation.
www.protecproducts.com/products.html
StanH
Basscat7
